[Comments by Marta Colburn, one of the authors on this important new book on Yemen's rich tradition of foods. For information on the book and how to order it, click here.]
Since 1984 when I arrived in Yemen to live with a Yemeni family, I have been intrigued by the local cuisine. During my first years in the country, I was totally immersion in the culture of food and the Arabic language of cooking terminology. I wrote down many recipes and learned about local foodways. Over the ensuing decades, my appreciation and enjoyment has only increased for Yemeni food and exposure to the diversity of its cuisine. One catalyst for delving into Yemeni food further was while I was the Country Director for CARE International during the Arab Spring. At a meeting I overheard an exchange between an Arab working in a UN agency (who had been in Yemen all of three weeks) and a donor: donor, “So, what do you think of Yemeni food?” UN staff person, “It’s pretty much like other Arab food.” I was appalled at this ignorant response that homogenized the diversity of ingredients, preparation techniques, spicing and food traditions found throughout the country. This started a process of researching and putting words to paper about Yemen food that paved the way for me to contribute in 2023 to the photography book Bittersweet: A Story of Food and Yemen. Once the opportunity presented itself, I conducted more than 40 interviews with both Yemeni and international scholars, and more importantly engaged Yemenis from around the country inquiring about their favorite dishes, distinctive foods of their area and domestic and global influences shaping recipes and traditions.
The group of individuals who were brought together by the World Food Programme (WFP) to create Bittersweet emerged as a team along the way; Asif’s amazing photos driving the content; Valentina’s creativity shaping the process and narrative; Jessica’s refined writing skills forming and reforming the final version of the text; Tim MacIntosh-Smith’s words bringing meaning to our efforts; and, of course, Naila Sattar from WFP keeping us on track and providing inspiration and guidance. It was a process that changed us all for the better and we hope such synergies are evident to the reader. The process of writing Bittersweet reflects the Yemeni proverb, “When men carry something together, it will be lighter.”
The food topics in the book changed over the 1.5 years of the writing process and there is still much to be written on all of them and other aspects of Yemeni cuisine. Let us hope that this is but the first of many more publications that focus on diverse aspects of Yemen’s unique material culture. I have found solace in writing about Yemeni food as a way to explore a facet of the country that transcends politics and conflict. Thanks to the many many cooks who have honored me over the years with their skills. I often dream of returning to Yemen to taste the kaleidoscope of possible combinations throughout the country!
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